With the completion of ACS (the American Cheese Society) Cheese Contest
it is time for reflection. This year contest entries were 1,208 in
number covering producers with very small production up to the mega
companies who produce products by the truckload.
It was bigger in number than the WCMA (Wisconsin Cheese Makers Association),
whose national contest earlier this year was 1,158.
Cheese contests are popular these days and valued by those who receive
awards, those who distribute, those who sell and those who consume.
Both contests have emerged as credible organizations who bestow accolades
on cheeses that the typical US consumer could not because they are
the new consumers of award-winning cheese.
For many years mainstream cheeses such as rindless Cheddars have won
awards even as they traveled down the slippery slope of low-cost industrial
production. Today those same cheeses are struggling for recognition
among a new tier of production, rinded cheeses.
This trend is in part the result of the appreciation of the judges,
not the consuming public. As I reflect on this I realize that I along
with fellow judges at both contests are responsible for this, a rather
humbling thought.
During the heyday of the industrial era (which is still with us) the
cheeses were a reflection of the highest quality cheese possible from
the system as it stood. The cheeses that are emerging today as winners
reflect cheeses that are the result of the pursuit of excellence in
gastronomy leaving behind the excellence in sustenance.
Let me explain. The cheeses that were the best of the lot up until
recent years were low-cost industrial output that were the mainstream
of consumer consumption, cheeses enjoyed by the common man.
Today’s winners are not so. The Leelanau Cheese Company is a
small operation in Suttons Bay in northern Michagan. Far away from
a body of population who the demographic specialists would consider
able to afford cheese with a price tag per pound of $10.00-$15.00 per
pound, the company is sold out. Leelanau Cheese Company makes a better
mouse trap and the world has flocked to their door.
While all of this is OK for those who are looking for great cheese
and can afford it on a daily basis or those who want to entertain and
impress friends and share with a suitable libation, these contests
are leaving the mainstream behind. The contests could be at risk of
losing the support of those who have sustained the industry, the mainstream
consumer and the contests up till now.
I know that if I was a producer of rindless cheeses I would be contemplating
long and hard if I even wanted to risk an entry fee when competing
with rinded cheeses.
Are contests just about gastronomy? Perhaps they are. While the WCMA
was running contests for much of it support base and ACS was running
a contest for a fringe group we now have amazing cross over.
Quietly the fringe group dipped its toes in the water over at the WCMA
and started to come up with a medal or two or three for that matter.
The extraordinary thing is that the success was not confined to a best
of class (often created to cater to a more diverse range of offerings);
they are taking best of show.
At the ACS conference big names are appearing as entrants; folks who
would have endorsed my description of the fringe group over at ACS
are now signing on, they want to be a part of this new wave of appreciation
for high value dairy products and want the endorsement of the governing
body. Beyond that the mega corporations even want to be “Artisan”.
If I was a consumer of gastronomic cheeses I would be looking forward
to the outcome of these two great contests every year. If I was a buyer,
processor, shredder or private label operator I would be wondering
where I could get an endorsement of the cheese that I manufacture or
purchase for my operation.
It appears that we need more classes, a separation of those cheeses
made with rinds and those that are rindless. How long will it be before
the contest governors have the judges scoring apples against apples
rather than the apples and oranges scenario we have now?
This is not a criticism but a reflection on the evolution of these
two great contests. Not everyone is going to want to buy a piece of
rinded Cheddar, most of us will be buying rindless Cheddar for a very
long time but will we be buying the best?
So to close I would like to say to both the WCMA and the ACS, thank
you for the opportunity.
Neville McNaughton, president of Cheez Sorce, St. Louis, MO, has
many years of experience manufacturing dairy products in both New
Zealand and US. He has been a judge at several cheese competitions.
Neville will be writing a regular column in Cheese Reporter and will
take any questions regarding cheese manufacture. You can reach him
at neville@cheezsorce.com. jumhoefer@wischeesemakersassn.
org
With the completion of ACS (the American Cheese Society) Cheese Contest
it is time for reflection. This year contest entries were 1,208 in
number covering producers with very small production up to the mega
companies who produce products by the truckload. 